Reference Data

Knife Steel Database

Twenty steels compared on the numbers that actually decide how a blade behaves — carbon content, hardenability, toughness, wear resistance and the heat treatment each one wants. Click any row to expand it, or add up to three to the comparison.

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Knife steel comparison — click a column header to sort, a row to expand it
Grade	Family	Carbon	Working HRC	Toughness	Wear resistance	Hardenability	Quench	Compare
5160	Alloy	0.60 %	55–58 HRC	High	Medium	Medium	Fast or medium oil	+
Heat treatment Austenitize 830–860 °C Soak 10–15 min Quench in fast or medium oil Temper 200–250 °C Two cycles, 1 h each Anneal 760–790 °C Forge 950–1,100 °C Strengths Extremely tough and shock-resistant Very forgiving in heat-treatment Cheap and easy to source Limitations Lower edge-holding than 1084 Needs a decent soak to harden fully Rusts like any carbon steel Best for Large choppers Machetes and swords Camp knives Springy, shock-resistant blades Related tools Gas Forge Anvil Quenching Oil Blacksmith Tongs AISI 5160 Spring Steel. Spring steel, and it acts like it. 5160 is about as forgiving as a blade steel gets: it shrugs off abuse, bends rather than snaps, and survives heat-treatment mistakes that would ruin a higher-carbon steel. The trade-off is edge-holding, since it is soft enough to dull sooner than 1084 or 1095. Perfect for big choppers, machetes and camp knives. Heat treat this steel Read more
AEB-L	Stainless	0.60 %	59–61 HRC	High	Medium	High	Plate quench	+
Heat treatment Austenitize 1,060–1,080 °C Soak 15–20 min Quench in plate quench Temper 150–200 °C Two cycles, 1 h each Anneal 850–880 °C Forge Difficult — narrow range Strengths Very fine grain and keen edge Tough for a stainless steel Grinds thin without chipping Limitations Moderate wear resistance Will stain if neglected Needs a plate quench and cold treatment Best for Thin kitchen knives Razor-sharp slicers Fillet and paring knives Fine-grained stainless blades Related tools Tempering Oven Belt Grinder Hardness Tester AEB-L Fine-Grain Stainless Steel. A stainless with a secret: it is essentially a razor-blade steel, so it has very fine grain and takes a keener, tougher edge than most stainless grades. It is tough, easy to grind thin, and hardens cleanly with a plate quench. It is not especially wear-resistant and it will stain if abused. Excellent for kitchen knives and thin, slicey blades. Heat treat this steel Read more
12C27	Stainless	0.60 %	57–59 HRC	High	Medium	High	Plate quench	+
Heat treatment Austenitize 1,060–1,080 °C Soak 10–15 min Quench in plate quench Temper 150–200 °C Two cycles, 1 h each Anneal 800–830 °C Forge Difficult — narrow range Strengths Very tough and forgiving Strong corrosion resistance Easy to grind and sharpen Limitations Moderate edge-holding Soft at typical hardness Not a high-wear steel Best for First stainless knives Thin utility and paring blades Kitchen knives Corrosion-resistant everyday cutters Related tools Belt Grinder Tempering Oven Whetstones 12C27 Martensitic Stainless Steel. The simplest stainless in the table, and one of the most forgiving. Low carbon and moderate chromium mean it is tough, easy to grind, easy to sharpen and very resistant to corrosion, though it will not hold an edge as long as harder stainless grades. It plate-quenches without drama and rarely cracks. A great first stainless for thin utility blades. Heat treat this steel Read more
8670M	Alloy	0.67 %	56–59 HRC	High	Medium	Medium	Fast oil	+
Heat treatment Austenitize 830–860 °C Soak 10–15 min Quench in fast oil Temper 200–250 °C Two cycles, 1 h each Anneal 740–770 °C Forge 950–1,100 °C Strengths Very tough and hard to break Holds an edge better than 5160 Easy to forge and heat-treat Limitations Limited availability Not stainless Modest wear resistance Best for Hard-use hunters Camp and bushcraft knives Heavy choppers Related tools Gas Forge Quenching Oil Tempering Oven AISI 8670M Modified Spring Steel. A modified spring steel that sits close to 5160 but with a touch more carbon and alloy, so it holds an edge a little better while staying remarkably tough. It forges and heat-treats easily and is very hard to break. Because it is not as widely stocked as 5160 or 1084, sourcing can be awkward. A good choice for hard-use blades you would rather sharpen than replace. Heat treat this steel Read more
15N20	Alloy	0.75 %	57–59 HRC	High	Low	Low	Fast oil	+
Heat treatment Austenitize 790–820 °C Soak 5–10 min Quench in fast oil Temper 200–230 °C Two cycles, 1 h each Anneal 740–770 °C Forge 950–1,050 °C Strengths Welds cleanly to 1084 for damascus Bright contrast layer after etching Tough and fine-grained Limitations Poor edge-holding on its own Not intended as a stand-alone blade steel Shallow-hardening in thick sections Best for Damascus billets Pattern-welded blades Contrast layers in san-mai Related tools Gas Forge Belt Grinder Quenching Oil AISI 15N20 Nickel-Bearing Steel. Not usually a stand-alone blade steel. 15N20 is the bright, nickel-bearing layer in most pattern-welded damascus, chosen because it contrasts with 1084 in the etch and welds cleanly to it. On its own it is a fine, tough, shallow-hardening steel that takes a keen edge but loses it faster than high-carbon grades. Think of it as the partner steel, not the hero. Heat treat this steel Read more
80CrV2	Alloy	0.80 %	58–60 HRC	High	Medium	Medium	Fast oil	+
Heat treatment Austenitize 840–870 °C Soak 10–15 min Quench in fast oil Temper 200–250 °C Two cycles, 1 h each Anneal 740–770 °C Forge 950–1,100 °C Strengths Tougher than plain 1084 Good balance of wear and toughness Forges and heat-treats easily Limitations Not stainless Needs a fast oil quench Harder to source than 1084 Best for Forged hunters Working camp knives Hard-use bushcraft blades Chopper-style knives Related tools Gas Forge Anvil Quenching Oil Tempering Oven 80CrV2 Chrome-Vanadium Forging Steel. A quietly excellent forging steel. Small chromium and vanadium additions make 80CrV2 noticeably tougher and a little more wear-resistant than plain 1084, while staying easy to forge and heat-treat in a simple shop. It hardens deep enough for most knives and resists cracking well. It is neither stainless nor exotic, but it produces dependable working blades with little drama. Heat treat this steel Read more
3V	Tool	0.80 %	58–60 HRC	High	High	High	Air or plate quench	+
Heat treatment Austenitize 1,020–1,050 °C Soak 20–30 min Quench in air or plate quench Temper 175–230 °C Two cycles, 1 h each Anneal 870–900 °C Forge Not recommended Strengths Outstanding toughness for an alloy steel Good wear resistance Semi-stainless and corrosion-resistant Limitations Expensive Cannot be forged in a home shop Hard on belts and abrasives Best for Hard-use camp knives Choppers and survival blades Impact-resistant tools Premium working knives Related tools Belt Grinder Tempering Oven Hardness Tester 3V Powder-Metallurgy Tool Steel. A powder-metallurgy tool steel built around toughness. 3V is tough enough to survive serious impact while still holding an edge far longer than simple carbon steels, and its chromium content makes it semi-stainless. It is expensive, hard to grind and cannot be forged at home, so it is usually bought as finished bar stock. For hard-use working knives it is hard to beat. Heat treat this steel Read more
1084	Carbon	0.84 %	58–60 HRC	High	Medium	Low	Fast oil	+
Heat treatment Austenitize 800–830 °C Soak 5–10 min Quench in fast oil Temper 200–230 °C Two cycles, 1 h each Anneal 760–790 °C Forge 950–1,050 °C Strengths Cheap and widely available Very forgiving to heat-treat Takes a keen edge easily Limitations Rusts easily without care Modest wear resistance Thin sections can warp Best for First knives Tough working blades Forged camp knives Simple heat-treatment practice Related tools Gas Forge Quenching Oil Magnet (Heat-Treat Reference) Tempering Oven AISI 1084 High-Carbon Steel. The default answer for a first knife. 1084 is simple enough that a beginner can heat-treat it in a coal forge with a magnet and a bucket of fast oil, yet it takes a keen edge and holds it well enough for real work. It hardens easily, forges cleanly and forgives sloppy temperature control. It will not win a wear-resistance contest against modern alloy steels, and it rusts if ignored. Learn the basics here, then move on. Heat treat this steel Read more
O1	Tool	0.90 %	58–61 HRC	Medium	Medium	Medium	Medium oil	+
Heat treatment Austenitize 790–820 °C Soak 10–15 min Quench in medium oil Temper 180–230 °C Two cycles, 1 h each Anneal 740–770 °C Forge 950–1,050 °C Strengths Reliable, repeatable hardening Good toughness and edge-holding Easy to forge, grind and finish Limitations Not stainless and rusts quickly Only moderate wear resistance Needs an oil quench and soak Best for General-purpose knives Hunting and utility blades Precision tool work First serious builds Related tools Tempering Oven Quenching Oil Tempilstik AISI O1 Oil-Hardening Tool Steel. The oil-hardening tool steel most makers graduate to after 1084. O1 hardens reliably, machines and forges well, and gives a good balance of toughness and edge-holding. It is forgiving enough for a careful beginner but rewards better temperature control. It resists neither rust nor heavy wear, yet it is consistent and easy to get good results with. Heat treat this steel Read more
1095	Carbon	0.95 %	57–60 HRC	Medium	Medium	Low	Fast oil or water	+
Heat treatment Austenitize 790–830 °C Soak 5–10 min Quench in fast oil or water Temper 200–230 °C Two cycles, 1 h each Anneal 740–770 °C Forge 950–1,050 °C Strengths Excellent edge-holding for a carbon steel Takes a very fine edge Inexpensive and easy to find Limitations Needs a fast quench and can crack Less tough than 1084 Rusts and stains readily Best for Slicing knives Competition cutters Thin hunting blades Traditional carbon-steel knives Related tools Quenching Oil Tempering Oven Magnet (Heat-Treat Reference) AISI 1095 High-Carbon Steel. A step up from 1084 in carbon and in temper. 1095 takes a very sharp edge and holds it longer, but the extra carbon makes it fussier: it needs a fast quench and can crack if rushed or quenched from too hot. Thin sections are prone to warping. It is still a carbon steel, so it rusts and stains. Best where slicing performance matters more than brute toughness. Heat treat this steel Read more
W2	Tool	1.00 %	59–62 HRC	Medium	Medium	Low	Water or brine	+
Heat treatment Austenitize 760–790 °C Soak 5–10 min Quench in water or brine Temper 180–220 °C Two cycles, 1 h each Anneal 740–770 °C Forge 950–1,050 °C Strengths Takes a very fine, hard edge Polishes to a beautiful finish Excellent for competition cutters Limitations Water quench can crack blades Demands careful temperature control Rusts easily Best for Japanese-style blades Competition cutters Fine, hard edges Polished presentation knives Related tools Quenching Oil Tempering Oven Tempilstik Magnet (Heat-Treat Reference) AISI W2 Water-Hardening Tool Steel. The classic water-hardening tool steel, and the reason old smiths earned their scars. W2 takes a very fine, hard edge and polishes beautifully, which is why it is a favourite for Japanese-style and competition blades. It also demands respect: water or brine quenching is fast enough to crack a blade that is too hot, too thick or unevenly ground. Not a beginner steel. Heat treat this steel Read more
A2	Tool	1.00 %	59–61 HRC	Medium	High	High	Air or plate quench	+
Heat treatment Austenitize 940–980 °C Soak 20–30 min Quench in air or plate quench Temper 175–230 °C Two cycles, 1 h each Anneal 840–870 °C Forge Not recommended Strengths Very low quench distortion Excellent wear resistance Air-hardening and crack-resistant Limitations Difficult to forge Needs a long soak at high temperature Toughness lower than simple carbon steels Best for Long, thin blades Fine kitchen knives Low-distortion production runs Cryo-treated cutters Related tools Tempering Oven Hardness Tester Tempilstik AISI A2 Air-Hardening Tool Steel. An air-hardening tool steel that trades a little toughness for excellent wear resistance and near-zero quench distortion. Because it hardens in still air, thin blades barely move and cracking is rare, a real advantage for long, thin knives. The catch is that it is difficult to forge and needs accurate austenitizing and a proper soak. Semi-stainless at best. Heat treat this steel Read more
52100	Alloy	1.00 %	60–62 HRC	High	High	Medium	Fast oil	+
Heat treatment Austenitize 830–860 °C Soak 10–15 min Quench in fast oil Temper 175–220 °C Two cycles, 1 h each Anneal 760–790 °C Forge 950–1,100 °C Strengths Excellent toughness and edge-holding Takes a fine, stable edge Forges well and hardens deeply Limitations Needs careful normalising Rusts easily Requires a fast oil quench Best for High-performance hunters Competition choppers Kitchen knives Tough, fine-edged working blades Related tools Quenching Oil Tempering Oven Magnet (Heat-Treat Reference) Hardness Tester AISI 52100 Bearing Steel. Bearing steel, and a favourite of makers who want toughness and edge-holding together. 52100 forges well, hardens in fast oil, and produces a fine-grained blade that resists chipping while cutting aggressively. It needs a careful normalising routine and a decent soak, and it will rust like any carbon steel. Worth the effort once you can control your heat. Heat treat this steel Read more
VG-10	Stainless	1.00 %	59–61 HRC	Medium	High	High	Plate quench	+
Heat treatment Austenitize 1,050–1,080 °C Soak 20–30 min Quench in plate quench Temper 175–220 °C Two cycles, 1 h each Anneal 860–890 °C Forge Not recommended Strengths Excellent corrosion resistance Holds a keen edge well Very fine cutting performance Limitations Somewhat brittle at high hardness Difficult to forge or heat-treat at home Expensive and often sold as stock only Best for Japanese kitchen knives Slicing and prep work Corrosion-resistant utility blades Related tools Whetstones Belt Grinder Tempering Oven VG-10 Cobalt-Alloyed Stainless Steel. The stainless behind a generation of Japanese kitchen knives. VG-10 takes a very keen edge, resists corrosion well and holds that edge through long slicing sessions. The trade-off is that it is somewhat brittle at high hardness and can chip if you twist or chop carelessly. It is also difficult to forge or heat-treat at home; most makers buy it as finished stock. Heat treat this steel Read more
CruForgeV	Tool	1.00 %	59–61 HRC	High	High	Medium	Fast oil	+
Heat treatment Austenitize 830–860 °C Soak 10–15 min Quench in fast oil Temper 175–225 °C Two cycles, 1 h each Anneal 760–790 °C Forge 950–1,100 °C Strengths Forges smoothly under the hammer Tough with good wear resistance Fine-grained, keen edge Limitations Fussy about heat-treatment Not stainless Limited availability Best for Forged high-carbon blades Working hunters Damascus core stock Keen, hard-use edges Related tools Gas Forge Anvil Quenching Oil Blacksmith Tongs CruForgeV Carbon-Vanadium Forging Steel. A forging steel designed to be forged: it moves well under the hammer and was made to give carbon-steel toughness with better wear resistance than plain 1084 or 1095. The vanadium refines the grain and helps the edge hold up. It is fussier about heat-treatment than simple steels and needs a fast oil quench. Rewarding once your forging is consistent. Heat treat this steel Read more
154CM	Stainless	1.05 %	58–61 HRC	Medium	High	High	Air or plate quench	+
Heat treatment Austenitize 1,040–1,070 °C Soak 20–30 min Quench in air or plate quench Temper 175–230 °C Two cycles, 1 h each Anneal 870–900 °C Forge Not recommended Strengths Good toughness and wear resistance Takes a keen, stable edge Hardens cleanly in air Limitations Less stain-resistant than 17 % chromium grades Needs a proper soak Not cheap Best for All-round stainless knives Folding knives General outdoor blades Production knives Related tools Tempering Oven Belt Grinder Hardness Tester 154CM Molybdenum Stainless Steel. A classic American stainless that improves on 440C with molybdenum for better toughness and wear resistance. It hardens in air or between plates, grinds well and takes a keen, stable edge. It is not as stain-resistant as the 17 % chromium grades, and it needs a proper soak to dissolve its carbides. A dependable all-round stainless. Heat treat this steel Read more
N690	Stainless	1.07 %	58–60 HRC	Medium	High	High	Plate quench	+
Heat treatment Austenitize 1,040–1,070 °C Soak 20–30 min Quench in plate quench Temper 175–230 °C Two cycles, 1 h each Anneal 860–890 °C Forge Not recommended Strengths Strong corrosion resistance Good wear resistance and edge stability Takes a polished edge well Limitations Needs a plate quench and cold treatment Not as tough as carbon steels Moderately expensive Best for Outdoor and hunting knives Dive and saltwater use General-purpose stainless blades Related tools Tempering Oven Belt Grinder Hardness Tester N690 Cobalt-Alloyed Stainless Steel. An Austrian stainless that behaves like a refined 440C, with cobalt and molybdenum adding wear resistance and edge stability. It takes a polished edge well, resists corrosion strongly and is reasonably tough for its class. It needs a plate quench and a cold treatment to give its best. A solid choice for outdoor and general-purpose stainless knives. Heat treat this steel Read more
440C	Stainless	1.10 %	56–59 HRC	Medium	High	High	Air or plate quench	+
Heat treatment Austenitize 1,010–1,050 °C Soak 20–30 min Quench in air or plate quench Temper 175–230 °C Two cycles, 1 h each Anneal 840–870 °C Forge Difficult — narrow range Strengths Strong corrosion resistance Cheap and widely available Takes a fine edge Limitations Coarse grain and lower toughness Can chip at high hardness Needs a soak and plate quench Best for Kitchen and utility knives Budget stainless blades Corrosion-prone environments Related tools Tempering Oven Belt Grinder Hardness Tester AISI 440C High-Chromium Stainless Steel. The old standard stainless. 440C has been making knives for decades: it is genuinely rust-resistant, takes a fine edge, and is cheap and widely available. It is also relatively coarse-grained, so it is less tough than modern stainless grades and can be chippy at high hardness. Good for kitchen and utility blades, less so for hard-chopping knives. Heat treat this steel Read more
1.2519	Tool	1.10 %	59–62 HRC	Medium	High	Medium	Fast oil	+
Heat treatment Austenitize 820–850 °C Soak 10–15 min Quench in fast oil Temper 180–230 °C Two cycles, 1 h each Anneal 740–770 °C Forge 950–1,080 °C Strengths Good wear resistance Forges and hardens reliably Fine edge stability Limitations Not stainless Hard to source outside Europe Needs a fast oil quench Best for Hard-working hunters Forged tool-like blades Wear-resistant cutters Fine-edged utility knives Related tools Gas Forge Quenching Oil Tempering Oven 1.2519 Chromium-Tungsten Tool Steel. A German cold-work tool steel that sits somewhere between O1 and a high-carbon forging steel. It forges reasonably well, hardens in oil, and offers good wear resistance and edge stability thanks to its chromium, tungsten and vanadium. It is not stainless and is less common in English-speaking markets, so sourcing takes effort. A capable steel for keen, hard-working edges. Heat treat this steel Read more
D2	Tool	1.50 %	58–61 HRC	Low	Very High	High	Air or plate quench	+
Heat treatment Austenitize 980–1,010 °C Soak 20–30 min Quench in air or plate quench Temper 175–230 °C Two cycles, 1 h each Anneal 850–880 °C Forge Not recommended Strengths Outstanding wear resistance Semi-stainless and corrosion-resistant Holds an edge for a long time Limitations Chippy at high hardness Very hard to forge and grind Expensive compared with carbon steels Best for Abrasion-resistant slicers Skinning knives Production and utility blades Semi-stainless work knives Related tools Belt Grinder Tempering Oven Hardness Tester AISI D2 High-Chromium Tool Steel. The wear-resistance specialist. With 12 % chromium and 1.5 % carbon, D2 holds an edge through abrasive work better than almost anything in this table, and it is semi-stainless to boot. It is also chippy: the coarse carbide structure makes a thin, hard edge fragile, so it suits slicing and skinning more than chopping. Hard to forge and hard to grind. Heat treat this steel Read more

Understanding Steel

What carbon, alloying elements and the tool-steel families actually do to a blade.

Guide

Heat Treatment Explained

Quenching and tempering, in the order you have to do them and why each matters.

Guide

Heat Treat Calculator

Turn a steel grade and a target hardness into temperatures and soak times.

Guide

Knife Steel Database

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